Paul Costelloe, Irish-American fashion designer for Princess Diana, dies at 80

Irish Designer Paul Costelloe, Who Dressed Princess Diana, Dies at 80

Paul Costelloe, the renowned Irish-American designer whose elegant creations adorned Princess Diana and who became a fixture in the London fashion world, has died following a brief illness. He was 80 years old.

“We are deeply saddened to announce the passing of Paul Costelloe following a short illness,” his label confirmed in a statement released Saturday. “He was surrounded by his wife and seven children and passed peacefully in London.”

Costelloe’s relationship with the royal family, particularly Princess Diana, helped cement his status as one of the UK’s most influential designers. His association with Diana began in 1983 when one of her ladies-in-waiting noticed his designs and arranged a meeting, an encounter that Costelloe later described as a pivotal moment in his career.

“I looked out at Hyde Park and I said: ‘God, this is it, Paul, you have made it!'” Costelloe recalled in an interview with Irish broadcaster RTE earlier this year. He would continue as Diana’s personal designer until her tragic death in 1997, creating numerous evening wear pieces that helped define her sophisticated style during those years.

Born in Dublin in 1945, Costelloe’s fashion journey began in a family deeply connected to the garment industry. His father ran a raincoat factory in the city’s Rathmines district, providing an early introduction to the world of textiles and design. Costelloe received formal training at the prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture fashion school in Paris, though company lore suggests his education was equally shaped by the cultural milieu of 1960s Paris and the influence of contemporary designers like Emanuel Ungaro and Pierre Cardin.

His early career saw him working as an assistant to designer Jacques Esterel before moving to Milan for a position with British retailer Marks & Spencer during their attempt to establish a presence in the Italian market. Though that particular venture did not succeed, Costelloe remained in Milan, taking a position with the luxury department store La Rinascente where he further honed his craft and aesthetic sensibilities.

Seeking new opportunities, Costelloe later relocated to the United States, joining the Anne Fogarty label as a designer. This transatlantic experience broadened his approach and provided valuable insights into the American fashion market before he ultimately established his own firm.

Over the decades, the Costelloe brand evolved into a comprehensive fashion house offering womenswear, menswear, bags, and accessories. His designs became known for their use of luxurious fabrics and creative silhouettes, with production split between his London design studio and a family-owned manufacturing facility in Italy’s Ancona region. This combination of British design sensibility and Italian craftsmanship became a hallmark of his brand.

Costelloe’s influence on British and Irish fashion extends beyond his royal connections. As a regular presenter at London Fashion Week, he helped shape the direction of UK fashion while maintaining his distinctive aesthetic that blended traditional tailoring with contemporary elements.

His death marks the end of an era for British and Irish fashion. Costelloe was part of a generation of designers who helped establish London as a global fashion capital in the 1980s and 1990s, bringing international attention to the city’s creative scene during a period of significant cultural transformation.

Tributes from the fashion world have emphasized Costelloe’s combination of technical skill, creative vision, and personal warmth. Industry insiders note that beyond his design prowess, Costelloe was known for his approachable demeanor and willingness to mentor younger designers, traits that made him beloved within fashion circles.

Paul Costelloe leaves behind his wife, seven children, and a fashion legacy that spans continents and generations.