At Hermès, Nadège Vanhée turns Paris twilight into a state of mind

An atmospheric hush fell over the Garde Républicaine in Paris on Saturday as Hermès transformed the historic mounted police barracks into an immersive woodland setting. Guests were immediately enveloped by the earthy scent of damp moss carpeting the venue floor, signaling that this wasn’t just another fashion presentation but a multi-sensory experience.

As Paris Fashion Week continues its march toward climactic shows from industry titans Chanel and Louis Vuitton, Hermès demonstrated why the 187-year-old luxury house remains a powerful force in fashion. The brand’s approach to luxury is distinctively understated yet transformative.

Models emerged through glowing circular portals in the walls, resembling figures stepping through full moons, and traversed a winding elevated catwalk suspended above the vegetation. The theatrical setting never veered into gimmickry, instead serving creative director Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski’s artistic vision perfectly by disorienting viewers just enough to heighten their senses.

Vanhée-Cybulski, who has guided Hermès womenswear since 2014, titled her fall-winter collection “Entre chien et loup” – a French expression for twilight, that uncertain moment when distinguishing a dog from a wolf becomes difficult. The show notes referenced Hecate, the torch-bearing goddess of darkness from Greek mythology, though the collection itself emphasized strength and precision rather than mythological drama.

Leather, the house’s signature material, dominated the runway. Fluid overcoats featured enormous Tuscan sheepskin collars, creating dramatic silhouettes. Zip-front mini dresses in deep blue revealed contrasting shirts underneath when opened. Perhaps most striking was an orange ostrich-leather jumpsuit belted at the waist, a masterful blend of motorcycle edge and quintessential Hermès refinement.

The collection acknowledged the brand’s equestrian heritage through jodhpurs and flat-heeled riding boots, core elements of the Hermès DNA. However, Vanhée-Cybulski pushed boundaries by pairing glossy lambskin cycling shorts with aviator jackets, steering the house codes into more contemporary urban territory without abandoning their essence.

Color choices defied convention, with Vanhée-Cybulski making a visual argument that nighttime isn’t simply black. The palette shifted through sulfur yellow, oxblood red, forest green, and iridescent burgundy – surfaces that caught light and transformed like living organisms, reinforcing the collection’s theme of transition and metamorphosis.

Zippers featured prominently throughout, slicing diagonally across jackets or running the full length of dresses. These elements served both functional and decorative purposes, suggesting that each garment contained potential for reconfiguration and renewal – a subtle nod to sustainability through adaptability rather than disposability.

The collection balanced its experimental elements with sharp tailoring. Double-breasted blazers and cigarette trousers provided structural discipline, while quilted silks printed with cloud-strewn skies offered moments of ethereal softness amid the predominantly strong silhouettes.

Industry analysts note that Hermès continues to outperform many luxury competitors in uncertain economic times, with the brand’s strategy of controlled production and emphasis on craftsmanship insulating it from market volatility. Unlike some luxury houses that have responded to challenging retail conditions with increasingly logo-heavy designs, Hermès maintains its focus on materials and construction excellence.

The presentation arrives at a pivotal moment for luxury fashion, as houses navigate post-pandemic consumer behavior shifts and growing demand for investment pieces with longevity. Hermès’ approach—focusing on exceptional materials and timeless design rather than seasonal trends—positions it advantageously in this landscape.

As the models completed their final circuit of the moss-covered space, the collection’s impact settled over the audience with quiet force—much like the scent that had welcomed them at the beginning. In a fashion landscape often dominated by spectacle and volume, Hermès demonstrated that sometimes the most powerful statement is changing the very air in the room.