Valentino opens post-Garavani couture with somber note, then high drama

Valentino’s first couture show since the funeral of its legendary founder opened with a theatrical flourish in Paris this week, balancing the somber mood of recent events with bold artistic staging that captivated the fashion world.

Many attendees arrived directly from Valentino Garavani’s funeral ceremony in Rome, lending an emotional undercurrent to the highly anticipated presentation. The show marked a pivotal moment for the storied Italian fashion house as it navigates its future without its visionary creator.

Creative director Alessandro Michele transformed the traditional runway format into an immersive art installation. Guests, including Sir Elton John and actress Kirsten Dunst, were guided through darkened spaces to simple stools positioned around circular pods. Each pod featured a small viewing window, creating an intimate yet voyeuristic experience.

When the presentation began, blinds lifted as classical music was punctuated by jarring sounds of barking dogs. Models appeared like mannequins behind glass, visible only in fragments through the strategic viewing portals – sometimes just a shoulder, a face, or a shimmer of fabric catching the light.

The stark white, clinically sterile setting challenged conventional fashion presentation norms. Michele, known for his maximalist aesthetic, made the surprising choice to ration spectacle rather than overwhelm with it. The restrictive viewing experience forced attendees to engage with the collection in a more deliberate, curated manner.

“It was theatrical genius,” remarked one industry veteran. “The tension between what you could and couldn’t see made every glimpse feel precious.”

The collection itself featured Michele’s signature elements – disco sheen, embellishments, and dramatic proportions – but with a restraint that suggested careful calibration. Standout pieces included gowns with boldly oversized sleeves approaching leg-of-mutton proportions, meticulously sequined surfaces capturing Valentino’s renowned polish, and voluminous skirts that dramatically engulfed the human form.

Industry observers noted that while the staging pushed boundaries, the garments themselves appeared more conservative than expected from Michele, whose tenure at Gucci was defined by eccentricity and excess. This measured approach may reflect the designer’s respect for Valentino’s heritage as he establishes his own interpretation of the house’s couture codes.

The front row underscored the event’s significance in the fashion calendar, drawing a constellation of celebrities including Dakota Johnson, Lily Allen, and rising star Tyla, alongside the brand’s global ambassadors and fashion industry powerbrokers.

The emotional weight of Garavani’s passing was palpable throughout the event. Renowned fashion critic Suzy Menkes, who attended both the funeral and the show, described the moment as “the end of an era,” noting that Valentino represented a rare breed of designer whose influence extended well beyond fashion’s inner circles.

“He was a designer that everybody could understand,” Menkes reflected, tracing her own professional relationship with Garavani back some 45 years. She emphasized his unique ability to connect with clients, celebrities, and the broader public – a quality that distinguished him even among fashion’s greatest names.

Menkes acknowledged the talents of today’s designers but suggested the transition feels fundamentally different: “We’ve got some really good designers who are taking over and doing a terrific job, but it’s not the same character… it doesn’t seem to be the same person who was there before.”

The show arrives at a pivotal moment for luxury fashion, as heritage houses navigate the challenge of honoring their founders’ legacies while evolving to meet contemporary expectations. Valentino, founded in 1960, built its reputation on timeless elegance and meticulous craftsmanship – values that Michele must now reinterpret for a new generation.

Industry analysts will be watching closely to see how Michele’s vision impacts Valentino’s commercial performance in the increasingly competitive luxury market, where heritage brands face pressure to balance artistic expression with financial results.

As the fashion world continues to process Garavani’s passing, this couture presentation served as both tribute and transition – acknowledging the house’s illustrious past while suggesting new directions for its future.