Giorgio Armani launches new era with iridescent colors and a star-studded front row

Ricky Martin and Hudson Williams were among the distinguished guests seated in the front row Monday for Giorgio Armani’s latest menswear collection showcased at Milan Fashion Week. The presentation marked a significant moment for the legendary fashion house as it was the first collection under Leo Dell’Orco’s sole creative direction following Giorgio Armani’s passing in September.

Dell’Orco, who worked alongside Armani for four decades, presented a collection that honored the late designer’s signature soft tailoring while introducing subtle yet noticeable elements of modernity and freshness. The runway showed a clear respect for Armani’s aesthetic legacy while indicating the house is moving forward.

From the opening look, the collection established a distinctive color narrative, featuring a loden green top that harmoniously complemented a textured jacket paired with gray trousers. The palette expanded into jewel tones with soothing purples and lapis blues that created a striking effect against luxurious fabrics including velvet, cashmere, and chenille.

Armani devotees would recognize familiar elements throughout the presentation. The collection featured archival inspirations through blouson bomber jackets and belted trench coats styled with crisp white shirts and ties. The brand’s trademark pleated trousers remained a cornerstone, while slightly crumpled fedora hats completed many of the looks, adding a touch of refined nonchalance.

In a departure from Giorgio Armani’s traditional approach, which rarely included a finale, Dell’Orco’s collection concluded with a complete walk-through of all the designs. Ricky Martin was observed filming intently from his front-row seat as the audience expressed their appreciation with applause.

Alex Badia, fashion and style director at Women’s Wear Daily, noted the collection’s vibrant atmosphere. “Somehow it feels more energetic, there is something about joy. It is not a new beginning, but you can sense something new is happening, there is a sense of energy that is great,” Badia remarked after the show.

Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (Italy’s fashion chamber), also praised the collection, describing it as “very modern” while maintaining “the true spirit of Armani.”

The Milan Fashion Week presentation comes at a pivotal time for the Armani empire, which remains one of Italy’s most prestigious privately-owned luxury brands. The fashion industry has been watching closely to see how the house would navigate this transition following the loss of its visionary founder, who had maintained tight creative control throughout his career spanning over four decades.

Dell’Orco’s appointment represents continuity for the brand. Having worked so closely with Armani for 40 years, he brings unparalleled knowledge of the house’s design philosophy and heritage. Industry analysts view his leadership as a strategic move to reassure investors and loyal customers that Armani’s aesthetic principles will remain intact while allowing room for subtle evolution.

After the show, Dell’Orco took a bow to extended applause from the audience. In a subtle indication of his own identity within the Armani legacy, he chose to wear a double-breasted suit without a tie, distinguishing himself from Giorgio Armani’s familiar uniform of a simple dark T-shirt, sometimes paired with a blazer in his later years.

The presentation on the final day of Milan Fashion Week reinforced the Armani brand’s continued relevance in the global luxury market. As luxury conglomerates increasingly dominate the fashion landscape, the Armani Group stands as an independent powerhouse that must balance honoring its founder’s vision while evolving to meet contemporary consumer expectations.

Fashion industry observers will be monitoring upcoming collections closely to see how Dell’Orco continues to interpret and evolve the Armani aesthetic for a new era while preserving the timeless elegance that has defined the brand for generations.