Chanel couture gets a breath of fresh air and stars. Armani revamps

Fashion powerhouse Chanel transformed the Paris runway into a vibrant fantasy land on Tuesday, as new designer Matthieu Blazy made his highly anticipated couture debut with a collection centered on joy and lightness.

The Grand Palais was reimagined as a dream garden filled with candy-colored trees and oversized pink-and-red mushrooms, offering a surreal escape from the gray January weather and the world’s heavier concerns. Before the first model appeared, Blazy set the whimsical tone with an animation featuring woodland animals working in Chanel’s ateliers, signaling this would be couture with a playful spirit.

When the collection emerged, Blazy’s vision became immediately clear. He took Chanel’s most iconic elements—the signature suit, pearls, and chain-weighted hems—and reimagined them with extraordinary lightness. A classic skirt suit appeared as a sheer, ethereal version of itself, cut with such precision it seemed to float. The house’s traditional tweed, often substantial and structured, was transformed into whisper-thin fabrics that moved with unprecedented fluidity.

Birds served as a central motif throughout the collection, representing freedom, movement, and travel. Featherlike textures and delicate embroideries adorned silhouettes that seemed to float rather than walk. Models glided in soft chiffon creations that created an impression of flight, with plumage-inspired details ranging from vibrant colors to darker, raven-like treatments.

The true artistry of the collection lay in how Blazy concealed the painstaking craftsmanship. Up close, each piece revealed meticulous handwork—exactly what couture clients expect and what Chanel’s skilled ateliers excel at creating—yet the overall effect remained effortless, almost casual. The designer played with trompe l’oeil techniques, including an organza interpretation of jeans and a tank top, while incorporating textures that balanced romanticism with unexpected elements.

In a notable departure for a brand known for its comprehensive, signature looks, Blazy introduced a more personal approach. Models were invited to select symbols and messages to be stitched into their garments—a love note, a sign, or a private mark—shifting Chanel from uniformity toward intimacy, transforming couture into a wearable secret rather than merely a public statement.

The show’s casting further reinforced this sense of individuality and joy. Blazy continued his practice of featuring models of diverse ages and backgrounds, making the clothes feel more accessible and lived-in. Model Bhavitha Mandava, who recently went viral at Chanel’s Métiers d’Art show, returned to close the presentation as a radiant couture bride, shimmering in feathers and smiling confidently.

The soundtrack complemented the collection’s evolving moods, transitioning from Disney-like sweetness to millennial nostalgia with tracks including Moby’s “Porcelain” and a mashup of Oasis’s “Wonderwall” with The Verve’s “Bitter Sweet Symphony.” By the finale, the audience was fully engaged with the presentation’s emotional journey.

What made Blazy’s debut particularly striking was its restraint. Rather than overwhelming with spectacle or aggressively announcing a new era, he breathed fresh life into Chanel through subtlety and refinement.

The day also marked another significant moment in haute couture as Silvana Armani presented her first collection as creative director of Armani Privé following the September death of her uncle, Giorgio Armani. Her appointment makes her the only woman leading a couture house this season, in a week dominated by high-profile male designer debuts.

After working alongside her uncle for more than four decades, Silvana maintained the house’s signature restraint while steering toward lighter, more wearable designs. She edited the collection down to approximately 60 looks—more concise than the brand’s typical presentations. Opening with softened tailoring, the collection featured relaxed suits, sheer organza shirts with ties, and flowing wide-leg trousers. Notable was the absence of hats, a departure from Giorgio Armani’s fondness for headwear.

The collection maintained a controlled palette of celadon and blush tones, with decoration primarily limited to embroidery and selective use of sparkle. Evening wear provided the most dramatic statements, including seemingly weightless crystal-embellished gowns and sequins paired casually with wide trousers.

In a touching tribute, the finale featured a bridal gown designed by Giorgio Armani for his final Privé collection, shown publicly for the first time.