Hermès menswear designer Nichanian takes final bow after 37 years

After 37 years at the helm of Hermès menswear, Véronique Nichanian presented her final collection Saturday at Paris Fashion Week, drawing a standing ovation from an audience that reflected her significant influence in the fashion world.

The Fall-Winter 2026 show, staged at the historic Palais Brongniart—the former Paris stock exchange—attracted an unusually diverse front row of celebrities and industry figures. Singer Usher was spotted conversing with Hermès executive chairman Axel Dumas before the event, while rapper Travis Scott, actors James McAvoy and Chace Crawford, and renowned designer Paul Smith were among those in attendance to witness this pivotal moment.

Nichanian’s farewell collection embodied the refined aesthetic that has become her hallmark at the luxury French house. True to form, she delivered a material-driven, understated wardrobe featuring silk turtlenecks paired with supple leather trousers in a restrained palette dominated by navy, black, and taupe tones.

The collection’s outerwear showcased exceptional craftsmanship with overcoats constructed using leather patchwork elements and shearling linings—emphasizing warmth and texture without veering into ostentation. This approach has long distinguished Hermès menswear from more trend-driven competitors, establishing the house as a beacon of quiet luxury.

In a thoughtful nod to her extensive tenure, Nichanian incorporated several archival pieces into the runway presentation. These included a navy leather suit with topstitched pinstripes originally presented in 2003 and a mocha calfskin jumpsuit dating back to 1991. The inclusion of these pieces created a visual retrospective of her contributions to the brand’s design language over nearly four decades.

While the collection maintained Nichanian’s signature restraint, she introduced controlled flashes of color through orange and yellow jackets that punctuated the predominantly darker palette. Among the most striking pieces was a glossy khaki crocodile-skin suit—a statement look that exemplified Hermès’s uncompromising commitment to exceptional materials and craftsmanship.

The fashion house announced last October that London-based designer Grace Wales Bonner will succeed Nichanian as the creative director for Hermès menswear. Wales Bonner, who founded her eponymous label in 2014, is scheduled to present her first collection for the French luxury house in January 2025. Her appointment marks a significant milestone in fashion history, as Wales Bonner will become the first Black woman to lead a major fashion house.

According to Hermès, Nichanian will remain with the company in a new capacity, overseeing men’s accessories and silk collections. This arrangement ensures her continued influence as the brand enters a new chapter under Wales Bonner’s creative direction.

Nichanian’s departure represents a significant transition in the luxury menswear landscape. Since joining Hermès in 1988, she has helped define contemporary masculine elegance through a consistent vision that prioritizes exceptional materials, meticulous craftsmanship, and timeless design over seasonal trends. Her approach has established Hermès men’s collections as a touchstone for sophisticated understatement in an industry often characterized by dramatic shifts.

The changing of the guard at Hermès comes at a time when the luxury market faces economic uncertainty and evolving consumer preferences. Wales Bonner, known for her thoughtful cultural references and precise tailoring, will bring her distinctive perspective to a house with 187 years of history—balancing heritage with her contemporary vision.

As the Paris menswear shows continue through their final weekend, Nichanian’s farewell marks the end of one of fashion’s longest and most consistent creative tenures—a remarkable achievement in an industry where creative directors typically remain in position for just a few years.