Chiuri makes Fendi creative debut with fur-forward looks and star-filled front row

Maria Grazia Chiuri Debuts as Fendi Creative Director at Milan Fashion Week

MILAN — Uma Thurman made a statement with her casual front-row appearance at Maria Grazia Chiuri’s highly anticipated debut as Fendi’s creative director during Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday. Thurman’s understated elegance in a classic white blouse and dark blazer mirrored the collection’s aesthetic, which smoothly transitioned from structured daywear to sensuous evening looks while honoring the brand’s heritage in fur and leather.

The show attracted a constellation of celebrities, with Jessica Alba sporting a double-breasted pantsuit that reflected runway designs. Dakota Fanning and Italian film icon Monica Bellucci were also present, alongside numerous K-pop stars, including Fendi ambassador Bang Chan, whose fans gathered outside with homemade signs and artwork, positioned across from anti-fur protesters highlighting the ongoing ethical debates surrounding the luxury industry.

Founded a century ago in Rome as a furrier and leather goods maker, Fendi’s heritage was prominently displayed throughout the collection. Fur-forward outerwear dominated the runway with bomber jackets, patchwork coats, and parkas featuring fur-lined hoods. Wispy fur collars added a touch of luxury to silken dresses and sheer, beaded eveningwear, while plush collars elevated classic trench coats.

The collection opened with sharply tailored dark blazers and overcoats layered over trousers and casual dresses. Lace elements featured prominently, appearing both in traditional form and reinterpreted through laser-cut leather dresses, complemented by starched white collars and delicate bangles.

Chiuri introduced brief moments of pattern diversity with boho florals, sheer Art Deco-style dresses, and a carefully curated selection of denim and animal prints that punctuated the predominantly black and navy color palette. These elements demonstrated her ability to maintain the house’s core identity while introducing fresh perspectives.

The fashion industry has been experiencing significant creative leadership changes, with Chiuri’s appointment at Fendi representing one of the most notable transitions. Having begun her career at Fendi as a handbag designer before serving as co-creative director at Valentino and later as creative director at Dior, Chiuri brings substantial experience to her new role.

Her appointment is particularly significant in the male-dominated landscape of European fashion’s creative leadership. Chiuri joins a small but growing contingent of women assuming top design positions at major fashion houses, including Louise Trotter, who will present her second collection at Bottega Veneta, and Meryll Rogge, who is set to make her debut at Marni later this week.

The emotional weight of the transition was evident as Silvia Venturini Fendi, who stepped aside as creative director last fall but remains involved with the family brand, watched from the front row. “It’s very moving,” Venturini Fendi remarked, noting it was “the first time I have watched a Fendi runway show” after years of working backstage during such events.

Chiuri’s debut collection successfully balanced reverence for Fendi’s heritage with contemporary design elements. The strong emphasis on fur and leather acknowledges the house’s foundations while her integration of modern silhouettes and fabrications demonstrates a forward-looking vision for the Italian luxury brand.

Industry analysts view this transition as part of a broader reshaping of European luxury fashion, with heritage houses seeking to maintain their identities while evolving to meet changing consumer preferences and addressing increasing demands for innovation in the competitive global market.