Blasting heat at home and still freezing? There are easy fixes to save money and stay warm

As temperatures drop across the country, many homeowners face the annual challenge of keeping their living spaces warm while managing heating costs. Despite cranking up thermostats, numerous households still struggle with persistent cold spots and drafty rooms – a clear sign that heated air is escaping to the outdoors.

The Environmental Protection Agency reports that air leakage accounts for more than 25 percent of the energy used to heat or cool a typical home. This not only affects comfort levels but significantly impacts utility bills and environmental footprint. However, experts suggest that homeowners don’t need to invest in expensive renovations to make meaningful improvements.

“It’ll lower your utility bills, it’ll make your home more comfortable and reduce your energy use,” explains Johanna Neumann, senior director with Environment America, an advocacy organization focused on sustainable living.

The first step in addressing heat loss involves identifying air leaks throughout the home. Basic methods include feeling for drafts with your hand or using candles and incense to detect air movement. On a windy day, close all windows and doors, then carry a lit candle or burning incense around suspected problem areas. If the flame flickers or smoke shifts direction when held near a particular spot, it indicates an air leak. For those willing to invest a bit more, thermal cameras (costing $100-$200) can pinpoint temperature differences with greater precision.

Windows are common culprits for heat loss. DIY home construction expert Matt Lanteigne recommends affordable solutions like putty, sealant, and indoor window insulator kits, all typically available for under $20.

“Window insulator kits include plastic film that’s spread over the window and attached at the edges with double-sided tape. A blow dryer tightens the seal,” Lanteigne says. “They’re really easy to install, and they’re not permanent, as long as you’re careful taking the tape off after the winter.”

Putty helps address cracks along window edges and trim. Energy auditor and contractor Eric George of Home Comfort Advisors notes that window trim often leaks because painters frequently skip caulking the top or bottom sections. Different putties are designed for various materials – drywall, plaster, concrete, and metal – so selecting the appropriate product matters.

Exterior doors represent another significant source of air leakage. Door sweeps – strips of metal, rubber, or plastic that attach to the bottom of the door – effectively block drafts and typically cost less than $20. For the sides and top of door frames, felt or rubber weatherstripping (usually under $10 per 10 feet) creates an effective seal.

“You just go around and you tack it or glue it to the inside of the door jamb where the draft is. And it should fit pretty snugly,” Neumann advises.

Less obvious sources of air leakage include electrical outlets, particularly on exterior walls. Cold air in wall cavities can flow through outlets that weren’t properly sealed during installation. Foam sealers – small rectangular sheets that fit behind outlet covers – offer an easy solution for less than $10 per multipack.

For attics and basements, caulk guns or spray foam effectively seal gaps where electric wires and pipes penetrate walls, ceilings, or floors.

Some more involved but still affordable fixes target significant problem areas like recessed ceiling lights. “Most of the air in your house leaks out of the top of the house. And as that air leaks out the top the house, it draws air in through the bottom of the house,” George explains.

Many recessed light fixtures were designed for hotter incandescent bulbs, featuring ventilation holes that now create unnecessary air leakage pathways. “There’s people that have 20, 30, 50 recessed lights in their houses and it basically turns their house into Swiss cheese,” George notes.

Hardware stores sell retrofit kits ($5-$30) for converting these fixtures to energy-efficient LED lights. The process involves shutting off power, removing the old bulb, caulking the gap between the fixture and drywall, and sealing ventilation holes with metal tape. The new light includes an adapter that screws into the existing socket with fasteners to hold it in place.

Vents for dryers, bath fans, and kitchen hoods often lack proper sealing. Backdraft dampers – cylindrical add-ons with metal or rubber valves that allow air to flow out but not in – provide an effective solution for $10-$50 each.

Attic entrances also create opportunities for warm air to escape through ceilings. George recommends foam boards to cover these areas and weatherstripping along the edges of any pull-down staircases.

These relatively simple, low-cost interventions not only improve comfort during winter months but also enhance energy efficiency year-round, as the same principles apply to retaining cool air during summer months. With a modest investment of approximately $100 and an afternoon of work, homeowners can achieve meaningful improvements in comfort while reducing both energy costs and environmental impact.